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Andrea
By Juergen Stryjak
Even if the tourist loves Cairo, eventually he will reach a
point after being in town for a period, where he would like to
escape the hustle and bustle of the metropolis, at least for a few
hours, to rest and take a break from the dust and the noise. A
shady open-air oasis, a restaurant, with tables nestled in a lush
garden, far from pollution – such a place exists, even in
desert-surrounded Cairo. The name of the restaurant is »Andrea«.
The tourist must only be careful to enter the original »Andrea«.
It is hard to believe, but there are numerous imitation »Andrea«
restaurants in town.
»Andrea« has become a Cairene trademark for relaxing,
family-oriented dining, in a wonderful garden, which makes you
forget that you stay in one of the world’s most vivid cities.
»Andrea« is a sanctuary, a legend operating since 1958, having
satisfied whole generations of locals and foreigners living in
Cairo.
Recently, during the last years, lots of »Andrea« branches
opened throughout the city. Or so I thought, until Omar Ratib, the
owner of the original restaurant, near the Pyramids, told me
emphatically that he has never, ever allowed someone officially to
use his restaurant’s name. Some businessmen thought that they
could participate in his success by imitating the legend – and
by using the name »Andrea«. Andrea Merryland Heliopolis as well
as the one at the Corniche in Maadi or the Andrea in Zamalek,
ideally located at the Northern tip of the Nile island Al-Gezira,
even the one in the same neighborhood like the original
restaurant, near to the Pyramids – none of them is connected to
Omar Ratib’s restaurant. He has filed lawsuits against them, but
this will take time, and Omar Ratib doesn’t expect a court
ruling within the next two years. Only one other »Andrea« has
the real right to use this name, the restaurant of an old Greek at
the Moqattam Hills, former co-founder of Ratib’s restaurant.
So, I have decided to never enter an imitation »Andrea«
again, which I admit, I have done occasionally before. Honestly,
there is no reason for doing this. The poultry dishes were very
delicious when we ate there recently, our little son enjoyed the
children’s playground and we were able to talk to our friends
without being interrupted by him continuously. My wife especially
liked the stuffed grape leaves. I had, among other dishes, the
excellent chicken liver, and both of us couldn’t get enough from
the Mezzes and the fresh, warm, home-made round flat loafs.
Next time, we will invite our guests from Europe and elsewhere,
to this place after having visited the nearby Giza Plateau. The
shady, green retreat will make a great contrast to the hot, sunny,
dusty Pyramids area.
Restaurant Andrea. 59-60, Maryutiya Canal. Giza.
Telephone: 38 31 133 and 38 54 441.
Prices: ½ chicken between LE 10 to LE 15 ($2.60 to $3.90),
chicken liver LE 12 ($3.10), Mezzes LE 2.50 each kind ($0.65). The
restaurant also features a spacious indoor section including a
large cellar bar.
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