|
Abou El Sid
By Juergen Stryjak
During my endless safari for restaurants in Cairo which offer a
decent Molokhiyya, a traditional Egyptian soup made of a
spinach-green nettle-like plant, I recently found the »Abou El
Sid« in Zamalek. Outside the building the restaurant’s name is
»Charmerie«, which was its predecessor. In magazines and
newspapers, you will sometimes find its name listed as »Abd El
Kader«, since this was the owner’s initial choice, before he
changed it into the current » Abou El Sid«.
 It offers
Molokhiyya in three variations, as chicken on rice, rabbit on rice
or with meatballs on rice, and it offers a variety of other
traditional Egyptian dishes. Some of these dishes, for example
Fuul, T’ammiyya or Koshari, one can surely them cheaper and
equally as good in other, more popular restaurants or snack bars,
but »Abou El Sid« is more than just another place to satisfy a
desire for Egyptian food. The »Abou El Sid« is an event.
Three times, during the last few months, I have taken
foreigners to this restaurant, and I have always witnessed the
same reaction upon entering the restaurant: »Wow, that looks
really beautiful!« The interior design indeed seems to be made
for a pretentious movie set, a dramatic, Arabic love story. With
baroque Louis Farouq chairs, wooden Mashrabiyya window shutters,
daring patterned floor tiles, graphic collages and other artwork
at the wall, marvelous copper lamps and large baroque tables, very
low, all of which transports the guests on an imaginary carpet
ride, as they indulge in the traditional Egyptian fare.
 The restaurant »Abou
El Sid« is somehow the modern version of an Egyptian fairy tale.
It looks very oriental, yet an oversized Pepsi bottle cap and some
enamel advertising nameplates from the Forties on the wall, as
well as the well-equipped bar signal, that this is a place for
modern people, who occasionally love to go out to a magically
traditional, but hip restaurant. The music crosses the borders,
from Arabic Pop to soft Hip-hop, classical songs by the grand
Egyptian diva Umm Kulthum, to even Italian operetta sound – and
the whole distance back, detours inclusive. The usual suspects,
young urban, middle and upper class Egyptians, some foreign
expatriates, businessmen and elegant old ladies patronize the
restaurant. They all make the »Abou El Sid« as their home, a
trendy postmodern salon, influenced by all that the people want,
traditions and western lifestyle equally, water pipes and German
beer. An Egyptian Bar, as the restaurant calls itself.
The menu sounds mouth-wateringly good. The Molokhiyya is
excellent, although the grilled chicken was the last time a little
too dry. The stuffed wine leaves are so extraordinarily good, that
we always had to order more. Whenever some of my friends took the
Circassian Chicken in  Walnut
Sauce, a very old recipe as the menu promises, he or she didn’t
regret the choice, and all the Taajen dishes (stews) I ever had at
»Abou El Sid« were always very delicious: okra and veal shank
Taajen or veal and orzo Taajen or pearl onion and veal Taajen, I
could not recommend a particular one. Stuffed pigeon is an Abou El
Sid’s special, but you will have to try it by yourself. I’ll
never allow pigeon to get onto my plate. The best is how they
serve the Molokhiyya: The guest gets a large copper tray with soup
bowl, a rice & meat bowl and a bowl with a tomato sauce on it.
Appetizers and mezze consist of the usual, hummus, tahini,
babaghannoug, salads, as well as one of the house specialties,
lentil soup. Desserts, of course, are available, too, but
unfortunately, I never reached this phase of my dining experience.
I have always had to leave the culinary race before I become
immobile.
Abou El Sid. Egyptian Bar & Restaurant. 157, 26th
of July Street, Zamalek, Cairo. Telephone: 73 59 640. Reservation
highly recommended. Prices: Mezzes and Appetizers between LE 5 and
LE 20 (US-$ 1.30–5.20), Main Dishes: from LE 10 to LE 42 ($ 2.60–11.00).
Alcoholic beverages are served.
|
